Africa Adventure Tours and Overlanding Stories by Nomad

Tosca’s Epic Kalaroo Adventure …. Binneboud Pink Days and Ghostly Quiet Nights

Grab a pen and paper, or your iSheet, tablet?  If nothing else close at hand, a coal from last nights braai.  I am about to give you very sound, thorough advice.  If you are going to come and experience the Kalaroo adventure, pack a beanie, and a scarf, and gloves, and mittens, and polar socks.  Also, pack your minus 200 degrees parka.  Did I mention a beanie?  Scrap that, pack a balaklawa!  It Is Cold! Enough said.

Saying Goodbye to Khamkirri Waterfront, thank you for your warm hospitality!

Saying Goodbye to Khamkirri Waterfront, thank you for your warm hospitality!

My morning started with the sound of a softly flowing Orange River behind my tent, and little birds cheeping… and the absence of my fingers.  I first thought I forgot them somewhere again, but it is just the cold.  Numbingly cold, cold.  With Visions of Sutherland, I pack up the paper tent, which actually stayed quiet last night.  It can also be that the Farmers Association party drowned out the sound of the Encyclopedia Britannica being crumpled up.  Oh, yes, write this down as well.  Do not, under any circumstances, pitch your tent a metre from the main reception/dance hall.  You might have some problems with drunk farmers tumbling over your tent on the way to their carefully pitched, 1 km away, tents.  And if you should have a party the previous evening, then rather pitch your tent close to a light source, and close to where you are having your party.  I think I saw one farmer on the opposite side of the Orange River, sleeping on the banks, hugging a reed.  I of course, slept the sleep of the dead, and, thanks to my careful wake up training from the Kalahari, woke up at 5h30 AM, with a vague desire to have some coffee.

Two hours later, I was skulking around, trying to sniff out anybody with a little caffeine in their tents.  Maybe hidden in the toilet tank. Perhaps the bar has a secret lock, and inside they store the best mocca ever.  Coffeeeee!  Please, just inject it straight into the veins. Finally some of the kitchen staff shows up, and I try and pull my best, “Oh, look at this poor thing, one can clearly see she needs a cup of coffee” look.  To no avail.  They most probably thought I had indigestion.  Then I thought, if I can steal some wood somewhere, and start a fire, then I can boil water and have COFFEE!  Nope, no wood.  I even considered making coffee from warm tap water.  Finally, after the tables were set, and farmers were all in attendance, and Bullet has been packed, and standing ready with bleary eyes, does somebody say, oh, would you like a cup of coffee?  Nah, thanks, I’m ok.  YES demit, can you not see the craving stamped on my forehead!  Now, having to make inane conversation with a red road map eyeball farmer, about the strange weather, meanwhile it is screaming in my head, can you please just get the sugar in your cup, so that I can get to the good stuff!  Finally, I had coffee.  Good stuff too.

Then I heard the bad news that there is no shortcut to Niewoudville, my camp for the night.  It is back to Kakamas, then to Keimoes, then down to Kenhard, Brandvlei, Calvinia, and there, finally a turn to Niewoudville.  And it is about 500km.  In my search for coffee, I was still standing at the Orange River at 9am this morning.  But, with sad goodbyes to Phillipa and Danie, and the three kittens running around, and Sparky my canoeing guide from Mafikeng, I started the 500km journey.

Kakamas first.  After my 3 hours craving, just one cup of Java would just not do it.  So, I decide to turn into Kakamas town.  Two streets really, please do not expect a metropolis.  And there, on the side of the road, I find The Pienk Farmstall.  Yes, you heard me correctly. The Pienk Farmstall.  And not just the name, everything from the name board, to the lady at the till, all pink.  And not just any pink, binneboud pink (inner thigh pink?  Hidden part of bum pink?).  And absolutely nothing of any value, or to do with a farm stall inside.

But a coffee machine!  Besides the coffee machine, there was an old typewriter.  Pink porcelain savings piggies, stuffed and mounted Springbok head, wearing a pink baseball cap.  One spectacular sundress, surprisingly not pink.  Thinking that a biscuit or some kind of baked goodies will go nicely with the machined pure half mast cup of coffee, I only find four empty serving plates.  But wait, dining tables outside under the awning.  So I ask the pink clad ladies, do you serve breakfast?  Nope, they say.  Aaa, I thought to myself, they cater for the lunch crowd.  Lunch?  I ask.  Nope.  Well, then dinner surely, nope.  They don’t serve meals, but then why in all that is logical, do you have a seating area like a restaurant?  Answer:  In case people want to sit down (in my head, this amounts to teasing, people can bloody go sit in their cars if they want to sit).  Anyhow, I walk out with some stale koeksusters, and the last biltong muffin, and I must admit, not bad.  Very salty, but not bad.

Die Pienk Padstal, I'm not kidding!  Binneboud pienk, everything!

Die Pienk Padstal, I'm not kidding! Binneboud pienk, everything!

Seriously, everything is pink inside Die Pienk Padstal!

Seriously, everything is pink inside Die Pienk Padstal!

Ok, rest of the driving.  I swear, I have solid 8 hours sleep.  Solid, despite the farmer doing a Nuck Chorris over my tent, with a double Flick Flack, side split, ending with an overhead roundhouse, so I should have been bushy tailed and very awake.  My personal opinion is, it is the damn roads!  5 min into taking the long road, I feel like I have the Titanic attached to my eyelids.  But I soldier on, get through Kenhard, and then had to stop about 20km’s outside of town.  Not because of sleepy eyes, 20km outside Kenhard there is nothing.  Some large farms, no farm houses, just grass, broken telephone lines, and a fence.  That’s it.  No other signs of civilization, or people living there.  Yet, on the side of the road, a very clear road sign, to please be cautious of the Bicycles.  Where?  What bicycles? Really?  You serious?  I actually had to do a U-turn on the highway, to get a shot of this.  I am sitting here typing, still wondering about that.

Bicycle sign, seriously, who is this for?

Bicycle sign, seriously, who is this for?

Ok, off the 500km I did, it went quiet for about 150 of those.  To Brandvlei.  But by then I could have just as well put Bullet on autopilot, and slept.  Luckily, Brandvlei, with all five of it’s houses, do have a wide open stretch of sand, with some iffy shade trees.  I pull in there, and decide to just close my eyes for a bit.  An hour later, I wake up, (or possibly I snored myself awake) with two locals sitting next to Bullet, against a tree.  A couple of slow blinks later confirms it is not a mirage.  Two locals, and they are giggling away. Looking at the only remaining reg number plate on Bullet, the one asks me, so, you from Somerset West?  My reply was, no, of course not, this is a rental car (yes, I know, I disavowed poor Bullet, but she got it), and off I sped.

Now I have been saying from the start, there is something amok with spirits and ghosts and freaky stuff in the Northern Cape.  I am driving along, full sunshine, thinking to myself that I should maybe exchange the sweat pants for shorts, when it starts raining!  Big drops.  Not a lot, but causing me to look up, and again, I swear, clouds!  And then Arabian days started.  In that area are lots of pans, with no vegetation.  Just sand.  I see a couple of sheep to the side, trying to actually dig a hole, so close to the ground they are lying, and think, strange, why aren’t they hopping along like sheep do?  When to my right, a sand storm the like I have only seen once in the Namib, approaches, and together with the sand storm is a cloud bank, with rain tinted a brown colour due to the sand storm.  I did stop Bullet, who also promptly tried to start digging a hole to hide in, and just looked at this spectacular freaky bit of wind magic going on!

It was sand and dust, and rain altogether!  I was actually expecting Omar Sharif on a camel to come tumbling past at least!  I actually started humming the theme song to Caravans!  Then a Land Cruiser drove into that whole sand water aerial mess!  Bravely going where no other vehicle (except for the Nomad Truck that other time in the Namib) has ever gone!  William was waving from the back seat! Spectacular!  I stopped a little further down, and called farmer Tractor Wagon, to arrange for the meeting re the tractor wagon trail at Niewoudville.  He says, lady, on a Sunday, farmers sleep in the afternoon, so I would have to call him at 6am the next morning.  So, nothing to rush forward to, I meander on to Niewoudville, in pouring rain, glad I have my sweat pants on!

A dust storm so big it made the sheep stop bouncing

A dust storm so big it made the sheep stop bouncing

Then I get another urge for coffee.  Luckily in Calvinia, the local petrol attendant has a kettle.  Working like an Old Model T Ford, but still working.  Thirty minutes after starting it, we had liftoff, and I had a flask full of coffee.  Only to arrive in Niewoudville sooner than I could get a cup poured.  But, 500km, not to be sneezed at, so I am rather tired at this point, and not one soul to be seen on the streets, or rather, street, of Niewoudville.  A little like Tommy Knockers.  I find Olive camp ground, get the gate open, drive around to the back, and am greeted by, wait for it, a chicken! And an aggressive chicken at that!  And following close behind him, two Peacocks! Tommy Knockers!

Calling the number on the gate gets me through to the owner, who it seems, owns most of the town.  He directs me to the Smidswinkel restaurant, where one lady waits.  Shame, I don’t know what she does on weekends there, but definitely not gather with a sociable group or something fun like that.  No other people!  And then comes the good news, I don’t have to stay in the camping ground, they prepared one of the guest houses for me!  Great!  Historical house, restored.  With no other soul in town?  AAAAaaaaaargh, Matjiesfontein all over again!  I start a fire, which cheers me up slightly, make a massive amount of food, which cheers me up even more, and then the sun sets.  And still, no sound.  No wind through the trees, no sound of kids playing, grownups talking.  Only a sad sheep baaaaaa coming from two houses down.  The last ciggie I had, I was huddled in the corner of the stoep.  Trying my best not to give off body heat, or a heartbeat! You know they can find you like that!


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